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I'll explain the thought process behind grading and touch upon the three different methods used in the industry today. Then I'll take you step-by-step through a simple cut-and-spread grading method and provide the measurements and formulas you'll need to get started. So whether you want to take a beloved pattern up (or down) a size or two or you want to create a small line of clothing, pattern grading is an important tool. Once you understand it, you'll be able to take your sewing to the next level.
The basic concept
Historically, the science of grading went hand-in-hand with the advent of commercial patterns and the mass-production of pattern-built clothing some 150 years ago. To properly fit a pattern to a range of sizes, each pattern piece needed to be graded, or systematically increased or decreased. Today, pattern companies and apparel manufacturers take a middle-sized pattern (typically a size 12) and grade it up for larger sizes and grade it down for smaller sizes (see One pattern, three sizes).
Once you have your topic, approach identified and conducted your initial research a great way to start is to list out all of your important findings and supporting data. Then by linking them together, organize them in a logical way to form an essay outline and first draft. Once that’s done you can go back to the beginning and work through to identify any new important points that have emerged, gaps, or other data that you need to include. Finally, editing is important to make sure your writing flows in an easy, readable way that makes sense, as well as reviewing punctuation and grammar.